If you desire to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.

 

Second, you have to eliminate copper fouling. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleansing rods.

 

Eliminate the brush, hose it down again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put three solvent restore the bore. The last one need to come out almost white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.

 

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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.

 

If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue stains, back to the J-B.

 

Now, some basic notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary treatments work? I doubt it. I've had one or two cases where a barrel unexpectedly began to group as I reached the end of the process, however I have actually had even more break-ins that made no distinction at all.

 

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They work, sometimes, however if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but great, and given that I'm at the age where I forget things, I'm reluctant to take the possibility. Likewise, they're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.

 

Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They desire them spotless. And spotless is an excellent way to go.

 

The actions to effectively clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. We'll cover standard field stripping in this short article. Due to the variety of rifles, total disassembly of the gun aren't within the scope of this short article. This is the most crucial step in the entire cleaning process.

 

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, and remove any loose particles that might be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.

 

One common misconception is that more is much better when it concerns lubrication of your gun. You desire to properly oil where required, however too much can cause extreme residues, which can lead to breakdowns and dealing with problems (slippery). Lubricating fabrics are an outstanding tool because they assist control the amount of oil/lubrication being used in any offered area of your weapon.

 

The procedure is basic. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel clamped or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Step 1.) Permit it to sit, and bear in mind that removing copper can take a while.

 

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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit once again, and repeat. If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit once again and repeat. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of speak about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.

 

What you do not want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. As soon as you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have actually been wet with a routine cleaning solvent. Run 3 or four dry patches down the bore to get rid of any remaining solvent.